Leamington Spa conjures up images of genteel ladies taking the waters before devouring a cup of Earl Grey and a crustless cucumber sandwich. While much has changed since it’s thriving spa town days, it’s immaculate gardens and regency streets still retain an air of grandeur. In need of a break over Easter, we set off to explore this Midlands gem.
How to get there by train
Leamington Spa’s located in the heart of Warwickshire in the West Midlands, approximately eighty miles from London. Chiltern Line train services run from London and take approximately one and a half hours. The town is also within easy rail reach of Coventry (11 minutes), Banbury (17 minutes) and Birmingham International (21 minutes).
How to get there by road
Leamington is within easy access of the M40, located five miles from junctions 13 and 14 of the M40, four miles from the A46 and eleven miles from the M45. Once you’ve arrived, there are 1700 parking spaces in the town centre and twenty-three electric charging points.
Is it worth visiting Leamington Spa?
Leamington Spa is definitely worth a visit. For a start, it’s less well-known than showier Bath and Stratford-Upon-Avon – providing a sanctuary from the tourist hoards. It’s size also makes it an ideal day trip destination. Unlike larger towns, you’ll have time to see the sights, lounge in a café with a latte and wander parkland before heading home for tea. For the budget conscious, Leamington Spa also offers plenty of free things to do making it easy on the wallet. Finally, the town’s only a stone’s throw from Warwick Castle if you want to add a dash of history to your itinerary.
What to do on a day trip to Leamington Spa
Jephson Gardens
The gardens were first created in 1831 as a riverside walk along the banks of the river Leam. The gardens were named in honour of Dr Henry Jephson, a resident doctor who put the Spa into Leamington Spa. The Victorian park is filled with colourful flowerbeds, quirky sculptures and a welcome abundance of benches to rest weary limbs. The gardens are free to enter and are open from 8.00am to 4.00 or 9.00pm depending on the season.
The Glass House
The Glass House was built in 2003 from Heritage Lottery Funds. Inside it’s stuffed to the rafters with birds of paradise, pink power puffs and towering banana trees. There’s also a goldfish pond and a glass beehive crawling with worker bees all secured under a pane of glass. The glass house is free to enter and a must-see during your visit.
The Royal Pump Rooms
These are undoubtedly the jewel in the town’s crown. Built in 1814 to accommodate the wealthy visitors who flocked here “to take the waters”, the original Pump rooms consisted of a Regency Assembly Room and twenty baths. A Turkish Bath and swimming pool were added in 1863 followed by an additional swimming pool and hydrotherapy facilities. The Turkish Bath is still available to visit and beautifully preserved in its original state.
The traditional season for taking the waters lasted from May to October. During their stay, patients were advised to drink the spa waters and bathe in them two or three times a week for at least a month. While mainly used for private health treatment, the Pump Rooms were taken over by the NHS in 1964 who continued to use them for treatments until as late as 1997.
The Pump Rooms today
The Royal Pump Rooms have now been converted into an art gallery and museum which are both free to visit. Currently there’s an exhibition (28 March 2023 – 1 April 2024), covering the 200-year history of water-based therapies. The exhibition provides a fascinating insight into the various treatments that were used to treat different ailments over the years. It was thought at one time that the spa waters could even be used to treat rabies.
There’s also an excellent tourist information centre on-site where the helpful staff can provide street maps along with inspiration on what to see and do.
Landsdowne Circus
if you’re looking for Regency architecture, you can do no better than take a peek at Landsdowne Circus. Originally created by a local architect in the 1830s, the crescent is a period drama dream. Featuring a crescent of brilliant white Regency dwellings – which overlook a pristine private shared garden for the sole use of residents. Unsurprisingly, Leamington Spa has a proliferation of blue plaques. I was fascinated to note that one of the crescent’s dwellings is the former home of the American writer, Nathaniel Hawthorne.
All Saints Church
All Saints Church is one of England’s largest and oldest parish churches with records dating back as far as the 12th century. The church is known for its impressive gothic-style architecture and stunning arched stained- glass windows. The famous art historian, Sir Nikolaus Pevsner summed it up perfectly: a church as out of the ordinary for its scale as for its style.
Where to eat in Leamington Spa
Leamington Spa has many different options for eating out: from gourmet cuisine to wholesome vegan cafes. If you’re looking for grandeur, Whittles restaurant is calling. Located in the Grade II listed Victorian Binswood Hall, lofty ceilings, elaborate candelabras and tall arched windows set the scene. Choose from genteel afternoon tea or a classic British gourmet lunch.
Enchanted tea rooms
If you’re looking for something a little more quirky then head to the enchanted tea room for an afternoon tea with a twist. Here, your cup of Earl Grey comes with a magical live performance starring real fairy tale princesses – perfect for a family-friendly visit.
For an international twist, All Saints church has a Ukrainian café inside the main entrance where you can sample traditional delicacies from the Ukraine during your visit. Also worth a mention is the café in the Royal Pump Rooms which provides some excellent light vegetarian lunches.
If you’re looking for a quick bite in between seeing the sites, head to the old town where you’ll find a plethora of chains and independent restaurants and cafes. We dined at the Waf Waf Café and Waffle where we indulged in an all day vegan breakfast for around £10.00.
Whether you’re looking to indulge in a cup of Earl Grey amidst Victorian grandeur or enjoy a simple picnic by the famous waters, there’s still plenty of reason to flock to Leamington Spa. But don’t tell everyone – we want to keep it to ourselves.