Ship ahoy – a swashbuckling afternoon on the Cutty Sark

There aren’t many visitor attractions that have survived a fire and travelled two and a half times round the moon.  The Cutty Sark is an undisputed marvel. If you’re looking for perilous adventures on the high seas during your afternoon out of the office, climb aboard!

Close up view of the Cutty Sark at the entrance to the exhibition.
Entrance to the Cutty Sark exhibition in Greenwich

Why is the Cutty Sark so famous?

The Cutty Sark was originally built exclusively for the China tea trade which first reached these shores in the 1650s and attained a rabid fever pitch by the early 19th century.  As a clipper, the ship was designed with speed in mind to fuel the Great Victorian Tea races.  Here, enormous sums would change hands for the first tea deliveries.  The Cutty Sark was the fastest clipper of its time and later, the fastest wool ship for more than a decade.

terracotta model in front of tea chests on board the Cutty Sark
Terracotta model standing in front of the tea chests on the Cutty Sark

How did it gets its name?

As one of the world’s sleekest sea vessels, it’s a bit odd that the ship was named after women’s undergarments.  “Cutty” means short and “Sark” means night dress or shirt in old Scots.  The curious term rose to fame in Robert Burns poem Tam O’Shanter where the character Nannie chased Tam in a Cutty Sark.  And it was Nannie who later became the ship’s figurehead – faithfully protecting the seamen in their voyages. 

Nannie the figurehead of the Cutty Sark on display in Greenwich
Nannie – the Cutty Sark figurehead on display in the figureheads collection in Greenwich.

When did the Cutty Sark burn down?

it seems incredible that it was 2007 when the Cutty Sark burnt down.  Fortunately, the ship was undergoing restoration with many of its original masts and planks removed and in storage.  And incredibly, 90% of the original ship is still intact. The fire was caused by an industrial vacuum cleaner which overheated when it was left on during the restoration. In total, it cost £10 million pounds worth of damage. But today, you would never know of its close brush with calamity.

Life on board the Cutty Sark

And what was life on board really like? The Cutty Sark would employ 26 seamen per voyage – usually for one trip only.  Unsurprisingly, some seamen absconded to a new life in Australia, leaving the crew to find a replacement down under. 

The crew would be required to work four hours on and four hours off around the clock with all hands-on deck during stormy weather.  In addition to navigating the ship, they would also need to be on hand to wash down the decks and carry out repairs.  The ship’s bell clanged to mark the changeover in manpower.  Still today, the bell chimes at 12.00 and 4.00pm as it has done throughout centuries.

Close up of the prow of the Cutty Sark overlooking the waterfront and Canary Wharf
Cutty Sark prow overlooking the waterside and Canary Wharf in the distance

The crew also had to bring their own belongings including bedding hefted onto the ship in canvas bags which doubled up as pillows.  Extreme weather conditions frequently meant that sea water would pour into deck houses, soaking everything in its path. But despite the considerable hardships, the Cutty Sark lost only six men overboard. Each journey to the other side of the world would take around 80 days – with the quickest journey time recorded at 73 days. 

How to get to the Cutty Sark

The Cutty Sark’s located in Greenwich, East London and even has its own stop on the DLR line.  It’s also easily accessed by the Elizabeth Line and the Jubilee Line from west London.

Is the Cutty Sark worth visiting?

The Cutty Sark is one of those attractions that simply can’t be missed.  Beautifully restored, the attention to detail is breathtaking. From the weathered China tea crates to to the original Indian teak beams, it’s a step back into a world where every day you’re faced with the very real possibility of losing your life at sea. 

Your ticket includes a full tour of the interior of the ship including the fascinating living quarters where the crew would sleep, wash and mend their clothes while on board.  There are also some interesting interactive displays including one where you can  navigate your way from the UK to Australia.

Cutty Sark living quarters with clothes drying and a draughts table
The cramped living quarters for seamen on board the Cutty Sark

Climbing the rigging on the Cutty Sark

If you’ve got a head for heights as well as good sea legs, a new opportunity to climb up the rigging of the Cutty Sark was launched last year. The climb lasted approximately one hour and provided breath-taking views across Greenwich.  It opened in September 2024 but is currently closed.  Check out this page for further details on when it may re-open.

close up of the figureheads collection at the Cutty Sark visitor attraction in Greenwich.
Close up of the figureheads collection on display at the Cutty Sark exhibition in Greenwich, London.

Have a cuppa beneath the ship

Once you’ve toured the ship, you can have a drink at the café where you can examine the timbers in forensic detail.  The café is well lit and spacious and is also the perfect spot for an afternoon tea.  While there, you can also visit the eclectic collection of figure heads including none other than Nannie, the witch, who has driven the Cutty Sark through many a perilous sea.  The figure heads were viewed as lucky charms symbolising the spirit of the ship to help guide the seamen home. It’s well worth a look.

Ground floor view of the Cutty Sark suspended above.
Ground floor cafe view of the Cutty Sark from beneath the ship

The Cutty Sark is one of London’s most intriguing finds and offers an afternoon rich in adventure.  It’s amazing to think how far we’ve come since the days of perilous journeys on the high seas when there were only timber beams for protection.  It’s an engineering marvel which will continue to fascinate for decades to come.

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