Nestled deep in the heart of central Europe, Slovenia’s Julian Alps offers mighty mountains, emerald lakes and pristine mountain trails. Frequently overlooked by its illustrious neighbours, Austria and Italy, the hiking hordes have yet to descend on these hidden heartlands. In fact, the only other “trekkers” you’re likely to meet are the frisky mountain goats.
Where to stay when hiking in the Julian Alps
We stayed in the Ribcev Laz village on Lake Bohinj. Situated an hour from Lake Bled it is the largest natural lake in Slovenia and a mecca for outdoor activities ranging from fly-fishing to hiking, cycling, canoeing and swimming.
The great advantage of staying in Lake Bohinj is the direct access to the immense 880 km Triglav national park. The park is the largest protected area in the country and has a special nature conservation regime. The park is named after Mount Triglav – the highest mountain in Slovenia and the highest peak in the Julian Alps. Such is the reverence for Mount Triglav that It’s said you’re not a true Slovenian until you’ve climbed it. The park offers a range of different walks from the strenuous 2000 metre mountain assaults through to the more gentle lowland jaunts that meander through flower meadows and tiny villages. Whatever your hiking ability – there really is something for everyone here.
Ascent of Mount Prizovic (1761 metres)
On the first day, I opted for an ambitious 1761 metre-ascent of Mount Prizovic – similar in challenge to the ascent of a Scottish mountain. From Lake Bohinj, the ascent of Prizovic takes three and a half hours and is a hard slog. Propelled from gentle pastures to steep, mountain tracks, the uphill ascent is relentless, however, the breath-taking views more than make up for the exertions involved.
Nimble footwork is required for the increasingly rocky terrain from the half way point and I find myself wishing that I hadn’t worn such heavy duty walking boots. After what seems like an endless ascent, we finally get a glimpse of the peak of the mighty Prizovic. Somewhat daunted by the towering mass blocking out the sun, we gird our loins for another mammoth ascent. Huffing and puffing with my eyes fixed firmly on the ground, I am cheered by the range of delicate Alpine wild flowers which provide vibrant, bursts of colour amidst the harsh terrain. It comes as no surprise that Lake Bohinj boasts an acclaimed, international wild flower festival each spring which provides a huge draw to the area.
After some non-technical scrambling along the rock face, the summit swings into view and it’s time for some well-earned lunch. But just as we get tucked into our sandwiches, there’s a scrambling in the bushes. Is it a bear hopelessly off piste in the Alps?
Moments later, all is revealed when a herd of frisky goats tear through the bushes and make a beeline towards us. Even more alarming is the amorous licking of legs that ensues. Their fervour seemingly knows no bounds and we’re forced to bid a hasty retreat from our picnic spot. Finally, shaking them off half way down the mountain, we descend back to Bohinj through verdant valleys and rich, carpeted forests. With a feeling of weary exhilaration, we return to our hotel – glad to have conquered the mountain and its frisky inhabitants.