Mini break to West Cork on the Wild Atlantic Way

Situated on the southern-most section of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, West Cork is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.   Filled with dramatic coastlines, vibrant fishing towns and fascinating history – it’s the perfect escape from the urban jungle.  And it’s less than two hours drive from Cork airport.

bantry-house-gardens-west-cork
Ground terrace view of Bantry House Gardens

Where is the Wild Atlantic Way?

The Wild Atlantic Way stretches 1600 miles along Ireland’s west coast from County Donegal to County Cork.  And it’s conveniently split into fourteen sections with the West Cork section stretching from Kinsale to Durrus.  However, if you were to drive the whole of the Wild Atlantic Way, it would take you 32 hours non-stop or three to four days travelling in total.

What to fit into a mini break to West Cork?

We decided on West Cork through serendipity.  Coincidentally, my partner’s neighbours kindly offered us the use of their holiday cottage, located six miles from Schull on the Mizen Peninsula.   This gave us a base and avoided the agonising decision of which part of the Wild Atlantic Way to visit.  While en-route to our accommodation, we decided to drop by Kinsale, situated 25 kilometres from Cork airport, and then added Mizen Head, Bantry and Skibbereen to our itinerary.  As a result, this also allowed us some much-needed downtime during our five-day stay.

houses located on Bantry Harbour West Cork
brightly painted houses in Bantry harbour in West Cork

A flying visit to Kinsale

I’d been recommended Kinsale by an Irish friend.  And I found out it’s popular for good reason. Arriving on a Saturday afternoon, we spent 20 minutes in search of an elusive parking space.  (Arrive early if you’re coming by car!)  But, once freed from the merry-go-round of municipal car parks, it took on a whole new light. Originally a medieval fishing port, the fortifications of Charles Fort and James Fort still guard the town’s entry point to the sea – alluding to its rich and vibrant history.

What’s so special about Kinsale?

Kinsale is a kaleidoscope of vibrant hues that seemingly adorn the walls of every dwelling.   For the best examples, head to Market Street and Newman’s Mall – where beige’s just not an option. And rightly considered the gourmet capital of Ireland, this vibrant port packs in fifty eateries including the Michelin-starred Bastion while also hosting several gourmet food festivals.  A wander down to the bustling harbour reveals a glimpse of glistening, plump fish trawled daily to ensure Kinsale’s foodie credentials.  Likewise, Kinsale’s prominent seafront location also make it a mecca for angling, scuba diving, fishing and kayaking.

Stone Mad Gallery in Kinsale, West Cork on the Wild Atlantic Way
Stone Mad Gallery – just one of many brightly coloured shops and homes in Kinsale, County Cork


A day trip to Mizen Head in West Cork

No trip to West Cork would be complete without visiting Ireland’s most south-westerly point. The Mizen Head signal station was originally built in a lighthouse in 1906 to watch over the country’s most treacherous rocks. The station is home to the country’s first radio beacon and there are fascinating insights into the lives of the Light Keepers who lived here until 1993. 

coastal view of the Mizen Head Signal Room and Foot bridge
View along the coast from the Mizen Head signal station

Is Mizen Head worth visiting?

Sadly, the station is closed for renovations until March 2025. But once it reopens, you can buy tickets at the Mizen Head Visitor Centre, (7.50 Euros per adult.) It’s then a ten-minute stroll along a path that culminates in a steep descent of ninety-nine steps to the Mizen Head Bridge.  This amazing structure spans 50 metres across a dramatic sea gorge where seals bask on the rocks below.  We were lucky to get an amazing day’s weather so took full advantage of the spectacular coastal views – rated some of the best on the Wild Atlantic Way.

the Mizen Head footbridge in West Cork's Wild Atlantic Way
Shot from below the Mizen Head Foot Bridge

An afternoon in Skibbereen

Our next port of call was the bustling market town of Skibbereen – home to an eclectic range of shops and cafes. With quirky venues such as the Vegan-run Antiquity Book Shop Cafe, it’s reminiscent of Glastonbury town.  In addition, there are also now two hotels as well as a trendy, eaterie in a reconverted Methodist church. However, its modern-day prosperity’s in stark contrast to it’s poverty-stricken past. Undeniably, Skibbereen was one of the worst affected towns of the Great Famine (1845-52).

Skibbereen and the Great Famine

During this time, at least 1 million people died and a further 1.25 million emigrated. In its memory, the Skibbereen Heritage Centre has a dedicated exhibition that relays the enormity of the tragedy.  (Entry fee: 6 Euros per adult). The Great Irish Potato Famine is recognised as the worst humanitarian disaster of 19th century Europe.  And the detailed and sometimes harrowing displays here are a poignant reminder of the suffering endured during this time.

Great Famine Plaque in Skibbereen, County Cork
Plaque to commemorate the Great Famine in Skibbereen which occurred from 1845-1850

A final jaunt to Bantry in West Cork

Our final trip was to the beautiful harbour town of Bantry – home to the famous Friday market and the opulent Bantry House and Gardens.  As the largest in the county, the market offers an eclectic mix of food, pet supplies, tools, clothes, organic skincare and bric-a-brac. You could as easily end up with a cheese or a carpet! And on the first Friday of the month, you could also end up with a cow. The market is on from 9.00-1.00pm which allows you time to have a browse, grab something to eat and people watch.  “Fierce,” grimaced a local woman as she was buffeted along the street before us. And I can’t think of a more apt term for West Cork’s frequent biblical deluges!

bantry-house-and-gardens
Bantry House and Gardens in West Cork on the Wild Atlantic Way

Bantry House and Gardens

After lunch, we head to Bantry House and Gardens – an impressive stately house and garden overlooking Bantry Bay.  First opened to the public in 1946, the East Wing now offers bed and breakfast accommodation and there’s also a cosy tearoom on the West Wing.  Admission to the House is 14 Euros per adult. But short on time, we decided to explore the expansive gardens instead. 

close up of the wisteria-enclosed fountain in Bantry House gardens
Steps leading down to the wisteria-enclosed fountain in Bantry House and Gardens

The gardens are cleverly built on seven raised terraces to take full advantage of the sweeping views across the bay. And it’s well worth a trudge up to the top terrace to gaze across the sea to the mountains beyond.  There’s also a walled garden and woodlands to discover – both of which are awaiting ambitious restoration work. A magnificent wisteria-covered fountain is the dominant feature of the ground terrace.  Seemingly, everywhere you turn, classical sculptures follow your gaze.  In addition to the impressive sculptures, there are also four guns overlooking the bay which date back to the 18th century when the area was invaded by the French.

Bantry House was a fitting end to our stay in West Cork.  While the weather can indeed be fierce, its packed with so much to see and do that you’ll never be bored. And where better to blast away the cobwebs?

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