Thrust into the spotlight by White Lotus, Taormina is Sicily’s sizzling destination du jour.   Perched on a hillside overlooking the mighty Mount Etna, it’s streets are filled with outdoor cafes, designer shops, bustling bars and blooming apartment terraces. Its hair-raising, vertical staircases are not for the faint-hearted but lead to amazing discoveries around every corner.

Where is Taormina located?

Taormina is located on the east side of the island and is easily accessed from Catania airport. You can take a 7-Euro bus ride from directly outside the airport to the main bus terminal. It takes approximately ninety minutes – depending on traffic and local pick ups. Those suffering from motion sickness may want to prepare in advance for its final 20-minute hair-raising ascent.

Where to stay in Taormina?

Taormina’s not short on hotels. While the San Domenica Palace, (of White Lotus fame), may be out of reach, there are options to suit all budgets.  You can whizz between the beach and town centre for 6 Euros per person. Or you can choose to pant up the many winding steps which can take anywhere between 30 and 60 minutes depending on fitness levels. If mobility is an issue, choose your hotel location carefully here.

Be aware that the beach area of Taormina has far fewer amenities and lacks proper pavements – pedestrians are definitely not a priority in Sicily. We opted for the hotel Mediterranee located on the highest tier of the town.  But what it lacked in modern décor, it more than made up for in views of the coastline and Mount Etna.  Sitting out on the balcony on our first evening, we had jaw-dropping views of Etna’s lava flow just two weeks before it’s most recent dramatic eruption.

What is there to do in Taormina?

Taormina has plenty of options to suit different tastes.  From hiking to snorkelling through to exploring more than 2000 years of history.  Film and TV buffs can also enjoy a White lotus or Godfather tour. If you’re feeling brave, you can also do an excursion to nearby Mount Etna on foot, by cable car and/or in a 4×4 jeep.

Where to eat and drink in Taormina?

Taormina has a vast array of restaurants and bars – easily absorbing its daily visitors. (Be prepared for crowds particularly from mid to late afternoon.) Our foodie highlights included afternoon coffee and cannoli at La Pignolata and an early evening Aperol Spritz at Bam Bar. However apart from the amazing gelato, the food was a little bland for our tastes.  Iceberg lettuce is a staple of most salads and there are limited options for vegetarians. Meat eaters fare better here with a good selection of meat-based pasta, fish and red meat. The wine though is a crowd pleaser for everyone and well worth indulging in.

Hiking to the village of Castelmola

For active types – a hike to Castelmola, reputedly Italy’s prettiest village, is well worth the effort of endless stair-climbing. Huffing and puffing amongst darting lizards and precariously hanging cacti, the end destination was well worth the climb. Perched above Taormina, Castelmola provides sweeping views as far as mainland Italy. Amidst the gluttonous gelato shops and street cafes, the Church of Madona Della Rocca is a surprising highlight. 

Church of Madonna Della Rocca

Constructed mainly from rock, the church was originally built on the site of a cave. According to legend, a young shepherd boy sheltering from a storm in the cave saw a vision of the Virgin Mary here. This sighting reputedly led to the Church’s construction in 1640.   It’s low ceilings and rock foundations give it a surprisingly warm and intimate feel – in contrast to the overwhelm I often experience in other churches.  

Before taking the long descent back to Taormina, it’s worth stopping for a coffee at the San Giorgio café to take in a last look at those sweeping coastal views.

Taormina’s Greek amphitheatre

History buffs won’t be disappointed by Taormina’s ancient Greek Theatre.  Founded in the third century, it was originally constructed for Greek musicals before taking on gladiatorial battles in Roman times. It’s Sicily’s’ second largest theatre, after Syracuse, and still today is used as the backdrop for symphonies, operas and ballets. Entry fee is 14 Euros per person.  Seemingly, wherever you walk in Taormina, Greek mosaics and Roman ruins pop up in every direction – alluding to this town’s ancient past.

Beach life

While most beaches in Sicily are public, there are many areas reserved for private use only. We used the facilities of our sister hotel free of charge which included sun loungers and towels. Use of such facilities can cost up to 20 Euros per person elswhere.  While not beach worshippers, these amenities allowed us to try out our newly acquired snorkels. Sicily is blessed with clear seas and abundant marine life – making it a great destination for both beginner and more advanced snorkellers. We visited in May and found the sea to still be a tad chilly and in hindsight, would have booked later in the year.

This was my first time snorkelling, so I clung like a limpet to the shoreline.  But thanks to the abundant rocky outcrops, I could still follow numerous scholes of fish.  You can book snorkelling excursions around Isola Bella where you can spot sea bream and if you’re lucky octopus.  Trips last for an hour and cost 40 Euros per person – booked via the local Diving Centre.  However, there are many other snorkelling trips to choose from as well as pleasure boat excursions and dolphin watching cruises.

Visit to Isola Bella

No stay in Taormina is complete without a visit to Isola Bella.  The island was gifted to the town in 1806 by Ferdinand of Bourbon, the King of Sicily.  Some decades later, the island was purchased by the rich English noblewoman, Florence Trevelyan.  Florence set to work planting tropical vegetation and constructing the island’s first house. After her death, the island passed through several ownerships before being completely abandoned in 1982 when it was targeted by vandals. It was finally declared an asset of artistic and historical heritage in 1984 and was later purchased by the Department of Cultural Heritage in 1990.

You need to roll up your trousers to visit as it involves wading through knee-deep water.  But once on the other side, you encounter a tranquil oasis of lush vegetation.  Cacti and giant succulents abound as you walk through a series of rooms connected by internal and external staircases, vaults and secret passageways – all constructed from rock. There’s a huge sense of peace and seclusion in this rock hideaway, surrounded by the gently lapping waters of the Mediterranean. The visit takes around forty-five minutes and costs 6 Euros per person.

If you’re fit and mobile, love culture and don’t mind active volcanos – then Taormina is for you. It’s a vibrant town filled with fun and adventure even if you don’t end up staying in White Lotus style at the San Domenico Palace.