Although published more than 30 years ago, Kefalonia will always be synonymous with Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. And with so much history, beauty and culture, it’s not surprising that it inspired such an epic work of fiction.  My first visit to the island coincided with the film release in 2001. But had anything changed?

How to get to Kefalonia

As one of Greece’s biggest islands, Kefalonia has its own airport with direct 3-hour flights from the UK. (We flew with Easyjet from Gatwick). Once you’ve whizzed through passport control, the local KTEL bus will take you to Argistoli. If staying in Lixouri, you can take a 20-minute ferry ride from Argistoli across the peninsula.

What is there to see and do in Kefalonia?

Kefalonia is a great place for swimmers, water-sports addicts and those looking for a less frenetic way of life.  We stayed at the Lazaratos Hotel, 3km outside Lixouri, for an active holiday combining walking with water sports. While not normally known for hiking, our daily organised walks gave us a great opportunity to get out and explore more of the island. 

Day trip to Argistoli

Argistoli is the island’s capital and home to 11,000 residents – the most notable of which are the sea turtles. These reptiles normally rock up for a spot of free fish on the harbour front between 08.00am -10.00am.    While this fast-food gorge is frowned upon by the local Conservation volunteers, you’re at least guaranteed a sighting of these amazing creatures here. But expect to be surrounded by a throng of other turtle fans.

Drapano Bridge

Once you’ve met the turtles, wander along the promenade to the Drapano Bridge – a mammoth 700 metre stone bridge that spans the length of the bay. It’s the longest stone bridge over a seawater in the world. And reminded me of the wooden bridge in Lucerne, Switzerland. The waters are remarkably clear here providing a glimpse of crabs, jelly fish and shimmering shoals of fish.

After the bridge, stroll through Lithostroto  –  an 800-metre-long street bustling with shops, restaurants and cafés.  And I was pleased to note – devoid of both tourist hordes and Captain Corelli bars.  While there, we stumbled across this umbrella art installation, similar to the Umbrella Sky Project which started off in Portugal and has since been replicated across the world. It’s not clear how long it will remain but its worth a look – it’s located half way down the main street by the ice cream shop on the corner.

If you want to stretch your legs a bit further, it’s worth heading to the Saint Theodore lighthouse which is located another hour’s walk from the town centre.  The lighthouse was originally built by Charles Napier in 1828 before being destroyed in the infamous 1953 earthquake. It was later rebuilt by a local architect in 1964. The lighthouse comprises an old windmill encased in elegant white pillars which contrast beautifully against the sea behind.

Climbing Mount Ainos – Kefalonia’s highest mountain

The highlight of our trip was undoubtedly climbing to the top of Mount Ainos which is the highest peak in the Ionian islands.  Standing at 1,628 metres, it’s on a par with Ben Nevis and provides the most spectacular views.  Watching the Greek flag flying defiantly reminded me of the mountain’s presence in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin with Alekos, a silent witness to the horrors unfolding beneath him. Hard to imagine on such a beautiful day.

You can drive to the transmitter station and then take the gravel path to the summit. But we choose to get out and walk the final 4000 metres through the most beautiful pine-clad forests which provide welcome shade from the sun. However, the temperature can plummet near the summit so ensure to bring extra layers.  The final ascent from the transmitter station is fairly steep and requires steady feet across shifting rocky terrain.  But it’s well worth all the huffing and puffing as the views from the top can stretch as far as Corfu. 

Visit to Assos

Situated on the west coast of the island, Assos is one of the island’s best loved beauty spots.   Starting our walk just off the coastal road to Fiskardo, we descend ancient tracks through olive groves to suddenly stumble across the most perfect horse-shoe shaped bay.  While still as idyllic as my previous visit, I couldn’t help noticing the swathe of new villas – all with identikit swimming pools – creeping up the hillside above the village.

After a welcome dip in the crystal sea, (still warm in September!), we make our way up the hillside to the ruins of a large 16th century castle.  The fortress was built by the Venetians to protect against pirates and raids by the Ottomans. After the Venetians, it became a prison during World War II and a prison farm until 1953. But despite featuring in Captain Corelli and being one of the largest castles in Greece, it surprisingly has very few visitors. However, it’s definitely one of the most peaceful picnic spots on the island with stunning views all around.

Visit to the ancient Acropolis of Sami

Our final stop was to the bustling port of Sami before heading uphill to the ancient Acropolis which was a former settlement before the Roman invasion. The walk from Sami is full of lush green vegetation with the rich aromas of mint, basil and fennel accompanying each step. While today it’s mainly weathered stones and rubble, the settlement was a force to be reckoned with since Paleolithic times and even had its own currency.  Signage and information on the settlement are minimal so it’s worth researching before you visit.

The Acropolis provides another ideal picnic stop with sweeping views down onto Sami.  Once you’ve conquered the Acropolis, no visit can be complete without a dip in the turquoise waters of Antisamos beach. Captain Corelli fans will recall this is the scene of the famous explosion and the base for the Italian camp.  The beach has the clearest water and is teeming with translucent fish – providing a mecca for snorkellers.

My return trip back to Kefalonia did not leave me disappointed. I’m glad to report that it really hasn’t changed all that much.  The history, culture and outstanding views make this island stand out with or without its literary fame. I only hope that it won’t be another twenty years before I make it back here again.