Home to prosperous merchant towns, international cat walk shows, glitzy seaside resorts and dark, brooding mountains, Montenegro is following hot-on-the-heels of Croatia as one of Europe’s most sought-after destinations. Attracting the attention of the international jet-set and the Russian elite, I decided it was time to leave office life behind and see if my ship might come in amidst the bright lights of the Adriatic.
David Bailey Kotor Bay Montenegro
Arriving into the palm-tree lined Kotor Bay, we delve inside the city walls where Italian style Piazzas and a labyrinth of back streets reveals mammoth gateways which once welcomed processions of horses and carriages. On an equally impressive scale are the dizzying twin towers of St Tryphon’s Cathedral, Europe’s oldest Romanesque Church. Emblazoned against a backdrop of dark, brooding mountains, the church has played host to the fashion glitterati with international fashion shows attracting couture connoisseurs, Karl Lagerfield and Christian Dior.
yeowatzup St Tryphon’s Cathedral
Feeling a little peckish after our initial perusal, the lofty vine-covered terrace of the Monte Cristo hotel grabs our attention. Seafood is the obvious dish-du-jour and we opt for freshly-plucked sea bream. Slow-cooked in herbs and spices, the sizzling, tender flesh is worth the hour-long preparation time. Enjoying the warm sun on my face and a chilled glass of Pivo, I reflect on how nice it is not to be anxiously clock watching while bolting down food on my lunch break.
Meet Up Sea bass
In need of some exercise after all the indulgence, we brace ourselves for our ascent up Kotor’s city walls. At a height of 1200 metres and approximately 1400 steps, this is not an excursion for the faint-hearted. Entering via Kotor’s North Gate, the climb’s highlights include the Church of Our Lady of Remedy – a former sanctuary for plague-sufferers and the crumbling Fortress of Sveti Ivan at the summit, providing jaw-dropping panoramic views across the Bay of Kotor. Well worth the effort. Allow two hours for the climb. (3 Euros per person – May to September only).
Maricia Taylor Kotor City Walls
Gulping down a much-needed beer on the Bay after my descent, my attention is drawn to a mysterious dark figure patrolling the length of a multi-storey super-yacht. Drawn to the stunning coastal scenery and bright lights of resorts such as Budva, affluent Russians now own 40% of property in Montenegro and make up 90% of visitors in summer. Donning my dark shades and best pout, I wait in vain to be invited on board.
Office Breaks Kotor Bay
These relative newcomers join a long tradition of international jet-setters who have flocked to these shores since the 60’s. From humble beginnings as a fishing village in the 15th century, the luxury resort of Sveti Stefan was a playground for the rich and famous from the 60’s through to the 80’s. Having fallen victim to the Yugoslav war in the 90’s, the luxury resort was re-opened in 2009 by Aman Resorts and now boasts fifty rooms, cottages and suites to welcome a cast of A-list celebrities rumoured to include Brangelina.
Rob Sveti Stefan
With my own luxury yacht failing to come in, it doesn’t look like I’ll be sailing off into the wide blue yonder anytime soon. Making a mental note to buy a lottery ticket this week, I board my budget flight home and brace myself for a return to my desk tomorrow.
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