With so many countries to cram into our limited annual leave allowance, it’s always a bonus to find a destination that provides a gateway to other countries.  Nestled on the Adriatic coast, Dubrovnik provides the perfect base to discover other Balkan gems.  Offering a frothing melting pot of Eastern and Western heritage, the historic town of Mostar in Bosnia grabbed my attention.  Famed for its ramshackle old town, Islamic influences and infamous dare-devil “diving” bridge, I nipped over the border to find out more.

Office Breaks Mostar

As we leave Croatia’s dramatic coastline behind, there’s an immediate change in atmosphere as mosques and minarets replace church spires and colourful bazaars spring up in the smallest villages.

Office Breaks Bosnia

As we veer into Mostar, a string of shelled buildings rears up as a reminder of the town’s war-torn past and current struggling economy – unemployment is currently at 30%.  Arriving in the old town,  a crumbling labyrinth leads us into colourful grottos groaning with scarves, pashminas, lanterns and children’s flutes all for temptingly few Euros.

Office Breaks Office Breaks

Turning a corner, the elegant Old Bridge sweeps into view in a graceful arc across the turbulent Neretva river.  For centuries, dare-devil divers have risked life and limb in the 21-metre plunge in a traditional rite of passage and a foolhardy way to impress the girls. Today, the divers are motivated more by tourist tips than romance as visitors clamour to experience the hair-raising spectacle first-hand.  Dicing with death, some have broken limbs and others have lost their lives.  Gazing down at the torrents below, I can’t decide if I’m disappointed or relieved to note the absence of divers today.

Office Breaks Mostar Bridge

Escaping the midday heat (Mostar is famed for being the hottest town in Bosnia), we duck into a family restaurant to try the town’s famous cheese pies.  Dreaming of a deliciously light filo pastry delight, I’m a little taken aback by the slightly stodgy offering served up below.  However, appearances can be deceptive and the cheese and sour cream surprise is surprisingly light and tasty.

Office Breaks cheese pie

Alerted to a sudden commotion, we see a figure in black trunks stealthily climbing over the parapet.  A sudden hush descends as we wait with baited breath. I can’t help thinking that if  this was the Thames, he would have been restrained by now.  I also note with alarm the absence of life rings. Crossing his arms over his chest he steadies himself for the plunge.  I can hardly bear to watch.  An electrifying hush descends as time stands still.

Office Breaks Diver Mostar Old Bridge

A sudden jolt and his body is suddenly propelled into mid-air with arms across his chest and legs bent in the shape of a frog.  With a heart-racing smack, his body enters the river and disappears.  Minutes pass.  With my heart in my mouth, relief runs through me as his head bobs back up to the surface to the rapid applause above.

Office Breaks Mostar Bridge

After the adrenalin rush of the plunge, it’s definitely time for refreshment and we head into a Turkish-style coffee house for a reviving glass of tea.  Discussing the jump with the bar tender, I’m amazed to hear that tourists are also getting in on the act and for a small fee (typically 21 Euros), are allowed to join the 21-metre-high-club.  Making my excuses, I politely decline the offer, this is one leap of faith I’m not willing to make.

A day trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik costs approximately £40.00 and takes approximately two hours travelling time each way.  (Waits at the border crossings can be lengthy).

What’s the most adventurous thing you’ve attempted on holiday?