An afternoon at Denbies Wine Estate

As flip-flops retreat to the back of the cupboard and the tube returns to full-capacity, the September return-to-work is in full swing again.   In the great wine growing region of Surrey, productivity is also about to soar as the harvest gets under way. Seeking a rural break far from the madding crowds, I booked an afternoon of wine tasting at Denbies Wine Estate. 

grapes, Denbies Vineyards

Office Breaks Denbies Vineyards

In scenes more reminiscent of Bordeaux than the Home Counties, gentle hills give way to reveal regimented rows of vines groaning with ripening bounty.  As one of Europe’s largest vineyards, the sheer scale of Denbies Wine Estate is jaw-dropping.   Launched on land previously used for cattle and pig grazing, the 250 acre site is now responsible for 10% of the UK’s total wine production. The painstaking task of pruning is still done by hand with a team of six clocking up over three-hundred and fifty miles in the course of a season.  Even more impressive is the fact that the team’s star pruner is aged over eighty.

Denbies Vineyard

Office Breaks Denbies Vineyard

Judiciously situated on south-facing slopes, the vineyard faces a constant battle with the elements.  On occasion, eight hundred heaters have been called into action to protect the tender vines from the perilous winter frosts.  Red wines are entirely weather dependent and if you’re a Zinfandel fan, you may have to wait a few more  years for climate change to kick in.  By 2080, some parts of the UK will be too hot to produce any wine at all.

Once the butt of many a joke, UK wine is finally blossoming among its new world contemporaries with the fertile British isles now boasting a staggering 420 vineyards and 100 wineries.  Rated for its fruity and citrusy top notes, supermarket stalwarts such as Marks and Spencer and Waitrose have been quick to get a splash of the action.  With 70% of wine consumed on site, you may have a job getting a hold of a bottle during your weekly shop.

Denbies Vineyard

Office Breaks Denbies Vineyard

But how does it taste?  First up is Flint Valley, a crisp, clean white without the slightest trace of acidity. As raised eyebrows and murmurings of approval abound, I’m clearly not the only one impressed. Taste buds zinging, we eagerly await the star best-seller, Surrey Gold.  A few shades sweeter than Flint Valley, its fruity top notes pack an unexpected punch as hints of ginger and peach sashay in a flavoursome tango.   As the perfect accompaniment to a Chinese takeaway, it’s not surprising that this one’s such a hit in the UK.

Our last sample is Rose Hill.  Savouring a generous glug,the cheerful rose provides a wistful reminder of summer with raspberry and strawberry top notes and a hint of toffee apple and blackcurrant.   At around £9.00 a bottle, this is by no means cheap plonk but well worth paying a few extra pounds for.

Model bear at Denbies Vineyard

Office Breaks Denbies Vineyard

Having stocked up, we stroll back to Dorking Station with a generous supply of bottles clinking in our bags.  As the autumnal breeze whips round, I spare a thought for the dedicated pruners who will be hard at it again in a few months’ time, a world away from the comforts of a warm office.

Denbies Wine Estate offers a variety of indoor and outdoor tours, for more information visit: www.denbies.co.uk

What is your favourite food or wine tour?  Please share your tips and experiences.

2 thoughts on “An afternoon at Denbies Wine Estate

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